CORDING
Although there are several nice cording feet, there are also some substitutes
depending on the size of the cord you are using. These are all Janome made
feet.
rolled hem feet (comes in 2 mm, 3 mm, and 6 mm sizes) the beading/piping feet
(two in the pack) pin tucking feet (5 mm and 7 mm) (sometimes you can find 3 mm
and 9 mm by other companies)
Any of these will hold the cord, giving you control. Your choice would be based
on what you happen to have and what you plan to do with the cord.
There are buttonhole feet too which allow you to easily make corded
buttonholes.
MORE LIGHT
If your machines are the sort that you can change the light bulb on, then it
might be a good idea to have a spare one on hand for each machine in your
stable. You just never know when one is going to burn out, but it probably
won't be a convenient time.
Be prepared! Avoid panic and frustration or an emergency trip.
QUICK TRICK
Emergency mend job? Not a problem if you take several needles, thread them in
different colors that you're most likely to need, and stick them in a little
pin cushion.
DID YOU KNOW...
that the holes in buttons are relatively standardized in space?
That's right--if you set a zig zag at about 3 mm- 3.5 mm width and 0.0 length,
the needle will go back and forth from one hole to the other safely. The holes
themselves may be different, but the distance between them are fairly
consistant.
And that's why a built in stitch for sewing on buttons will work without
adjustment. Of course, it's always wise to test the distance by
"walking" your needle from one hole to the other by hand turning the
fly wheel before you start sewing in earnest.
A NOVEL IDEA
If stitching is your passion, enjoy some light reading by these authors who
spin a tale, weave a story, and stitch up suspense:
Jennifer Chiaverini
Earlene Fowler
Monica Ferris
Happy reading to you!
ALL THINGS EQUAL?
Not all of your measureing tools. Today's rulers or measuring devices come in
all shapes and sizes, at all prices, and in many brands. Some are more accurate
and consistant than others. Since you may not always know or be able to tell
which ones are right on and which ones are off, the best suggestion seems to be
to use the same tool as much as possible throughout a given project. If that
just can't be done, compare the various tools with each other to see if an inch
is an inch is an inch.
Also, check that the markings on each of your measuring tools are accurate the
whole way through.
You can measure and measure and measure again, but have things come out wrong.
Being sure that the tools are accurate is one way to prevent things from not
coming out the correct size.
HANDY DANDY
Do you know who I am? I am metal, marked along 2-3 edges, have a plastic slider
with a point, one end has a point and a hole, three corners are square,and I am
a mere 6" long. I am often misplaced or just plain MIA. I cost under a dollar
and can do many chores for you in the sewingroom. I can measure many things. I
can trace a pattern with a seam allowance on waxed paper. You can put a pin in
my little hole and twirl me around with a pencil, creating a circle or an arc.
I can do sew many things that you miss me when I'm AWOL.
I am a sewing (and knitting) gauge. Trust me, you need more than one of me. Add
my name to your next shopping list and bring home several of us. We love
company but we'll work hard too. You'll love us!
TRACKING PROGRESS
Do you ever feel that that you're not accomplishing much in sewing? Keep track
of each thing you do.
---Mark on a calendar each thing that you complete.
---Take a picture of each new item you create. Put it in an album of some sort
with pattern number, fabric samples, new skills learned, other skilled
improved, and even comments from the person who receives it.
Periodically read through the calendar or sit down with your own "brag
book." You're progressing so much more than you realize. Rejoice and
compliment yourself. Reflect on what you have done, not what you didn't do.
You've come a long way!
HEIRLOOM SMALL
If you'd like to practice or try out new stitching techniques, think about
using them in doll clothes. The 18" dolls are a nice size, but they don't
have to be the expensive name brand ones. Check out garage sales and resale
stores for a doll which needs rescuing. Or get a low priced one at discount
stores.
MEMORIES
Save a piece of fabric from each item you make for a loved one. Keep them in
separate boxes, bags, or whatever works best for you. Make them into a quilt,
wallhanging, etc. as a gift for that person's 18th (or older, but special)
birthday, high school or college graduation, or wedding day. Most likely they
will enjoy looking at each piece and remembering the item. With that will go
the memories of what they were doing when the wore or used the item.
TODDLER BIBS
This is in response to a recent question on the list.
DIL and I have devised ways of making bibs for the messiests of the messies in
the toddler division. She very much liked a couple that were handed down to
her. The were made of vinyl with sleeves, tied in the back, and had a pocket
along the lower edge of the front. There is a commercial pattern available (either
Simplicity of Mc Call's) as well as a private one from Sew Baby, but we were
able to devise our own from a sweatshirt pattern. Some have been made out of
flannel backed vinyl availabe as tableclothes as well as on the roll. Others
have been with fusible vinyl and fabrics. And, I made some out of towels.
She says that the pocket and the sleeves (which we either cuffed with ribbing
or ran elastic through a casing) were the two most important parts of the
toddler bib, used not only for eating but for other messy activities such as
painting and "cooking." The idea is to cover as much child as
possible without bulkiness, weight or restraining their movement too much.
These can be decorated wtih embroidery or appliques.
But just a cute child fabric will do the trick. More than one is needed as they
can mess things up pretty fast. However, if they can be wiped off easily,
they're quickly ready to go again.
COORDINATES
EXTRAORDINAIRE
Because you can sew you can put together outfits that really go together. From
a print on the bottom, cut out a motif and appliqué it on a top. From a solid,
create an design and applique it on a top. Or, from either the solid or the
print, trim the top in more than one place.
Solid pants and a print skirt which mix? Knit top and a woven blouse/shirt, one
appliquéd with either solid or print and the other trimmed with what you
haven't used.
Now you have 4 different looks out of 4 simple pieces.
You might use both the print and solid on just one top.
The choice is completely yours just as the look will be.
It will have your signature all over.
Try the idea in children's wear. Remember that plaid and stripes are prints.
They can be cut into shapes and become appliques.
More ideas to come!
COORDINATES 2
Make a jacket from a sweatshirt to go with your tops and bottoms. Applique,
embroider, embellish them to mix and match. Do a Google search for
"sweatshirt jackets" and you will not lack for sites to visit.
These wardrobe ideas will work for all ages.
VESTED INTERESTS
Another coordinated topper for your mix and match wardrobe is a vest. Think of
a stitching technique, and it can be used on a vest of any length, from sporty
to stylistic, with anything in between. Almost any fabric will do including
soft screening. In warm weather a vest is a wonderful way to complete an
outfit. In cold weather it's an extra layering piece. Match the color of the
vest with the bottom color and really look pulled together. It can be closed or
opened even with no closures at all.
It's all up to you. Choosing what you want to do may be the most time consuming
part of the whole project. It just might become your signature garment.
TOPPING IT OFF
There are other items you might consider making for completely an outfit:
headbands, scrunchies, hats, totes, handbags, purses, scarves, decorative
tennies, jewelry, belts, flowers, and this is probably just the beginning.
Be careful not to over do on any one ensemble though.
It's not a "fire sale" but a striking combination that says just what
you want it to say.
PLAYING WITH PLAIDS
When we sew we can be sure that the plaids match.
However, there are two types of plaids: even and uneven.
Even plaids can be matched both vertically as well as horizontally. Uneven
plaids can only be matched one direction. You choose which way to get the best
look.
Plaids have a repeat, that is, how far it goes before the pattern repeats
itself. The bigger the repeat, the more fabric you will need for matching the
plaid pattern.
If not matching is going to cause you visual grief, then cut the pattern piece
on the diagonal and forget about matching.
KEEPING PLAIDS IN
PLACE
Once you've nicely matched your plaids, you'd like them to be that way when you
finish sewing the seam..
A walking foot helps a lot. Other ways include:
+++frequent pinning -- horizontal to the seam line and
removing them before the needle or
parallel to the seam line, either on
left or the right.
+++baste with water soluble thread--stitch the seam.
+++stitch on one piece with fusible thread in the bobbin
and showing on the right side, match both pieces,
and press--stitch the seam.
+++Steam-a-Seam 2, 1/4" wide--finger press in place on
the right side, peel off paper, match both pieces, and
steam press--stitch the seam.
If one way doesn't work well for you, then try another until you find a method
with which you are comfortable.
NEAT, TIDY, AND HANDY
There is a basket which is rectangular in shape and divided into six sections.
They are for flatware or beverages at a picnic for example. Why not put one on
your sewing table? Organize all your little tools and notions so that they are
easily and quickly reached.
Another idea would be a small lazy susan such as used in kitchen cupboards.
Neither takes up much space but sure can save time in searching for what you've
misplaced or hidden.
$ERGERS FOR $ENTS
Warning: this is not for people opposed to buying lower end machines or from
other than dealers.
Also, although this list is called Memory Craft (a name used by Janome for
their TOLs) this is going to be about some other brands. Interestingly enough,
a good number of our list don't have a Janome or Janome made machine. We just
all love to sew!
If you've been wanting a serger but didn't think that you could afford one,
this may be for you. In browsing through a couple of Wal-Marts I noticed that
the Brother
1034 had been marked down, as if it were being closed out by the store. (This
doesn't appear to be true price wise on their internet site.) Then I saw the
Singer 14SH654 in a spiffy new setting.
The price of each is under $200. Both are 3/4 thread differential with free
arms and quick conversion to rolled hems. Both also seem to be being sold by
dealers and even on/line at higher prices.
As with other things bought at the big box stores, there usually isn't any
support. But, if your learning style includes teaching yourself, then you
should be ok. Many others before you have been self taught. There are generic
books to help you too. Both are lay-in thread style. Brother comes with a video
and two extra feet. It has a MSRP of $400 while the Singer's is either that or
$50 more. You can't try either out but you can return them within a reasonable
period of time.
So, if this might fill the bill and fit your needs, then take a look to see what
is being offered around your area.
Just wanted to let you know because both machines do meet what many consider to
be the basics that a serger should have.
BE CAREFUL
I have just read a post on another list from a young woman who was finishing an
embroidery for her little son to wear to the zoo the next day. She was in a
hurry (aren't we all at some time or other?) so reached in to clip a thread
without stopping the machine. It went to another area to stitch and the needle
went through her little finger, hauling the tread along. She had to call her
husband home to pull the needle and thread the rest of the way through and go
in for a tetnus shot that evening.
She was blessed with no other damage, but it could have been so very much
worse. So, I want all of you to take care of what and how you do it. Take
safety precautions every time. You know what will happen the "one"
time you don't. You're each and everyone of you very precious to me.
sewingly yours,
nancy s in wis
(all rights reserved)
P.S. The little one year old did wear the outfit to the zoo the next day.
STABILIZER WARDROBE
Stabilizing is something that you put under and sometimes on top of fabric for
embroidery or other sewing functions. There are many brands and many types.
Usually it's not possible to just have one kind and one brand. The fabric,
technique, and stitch density all play a key in determining which one to use.
Rather than trying to memorize and understand a bunch of names which have been
developed by marketing gurus, let's try to get a basic understanding of the
types of stabilizers, so that you can select one or more brand of each kind to
have on hand for both practicing and sewing.
A little knowledge of the basics will help you through the maze of much of what
is out there. There are changes nearly daily so this is certainly subject to
changes and additions, but you need to start somewhere to eliminate some of the
confusion.
Types:
--tear away
--cut away
--wash away
--water soluable
--mesh (also called "invisible show through") --sticky back (both
peel away paper and water activated)
Varying kinds:
--weight extra lightweight to extra heavy) --color (mostly white, but some
black and beige) --may be fusible --material --amount of stability
-- flexibility of fabric after stitching
Each brand, type, and kind tells you what fabrics and functions for which the
product is best suited. You may use more than one layer of one or a combination
of 2 or more. Only you can decide which works best for you, which you are most
comfortable using, and which gives you the most pleasing results. Recently an
instructor was heard to say that if you're using more than one layer of any
stablizer, then you're not using the correct one. While this may be true, we
may not have or have not found the best one stablizer for a given project, so
we'll have to muddle along but not be afraid to use enough stablizer.
The prices will vary according to where you buy it. When you do settle on the
best choices for you, then decide which will be used more than others. Then buy
the amounts in accordance with your determinations. This will become your own
personal stablizer wardrobe. Wear it well!
BREAKING THE RULES
But doing it without guilt.
Some people always break them, others never do. It's often said that rules are
meant to be broken. But you need to know which rules can be broken, which ones
should be, and which few to never break.
So, that means that before you break any sewing rules, you have to know the
rules which are the basics for your craft.
Think through how you'd like to do something, read about the various ways to do
the same thing, listen to what others have to say and have tried themselves.
Learn from their mistakes as well as your own. Practice, practice, practice
until your way becomes second nature.
Once you develop your own successful way, then you've broken the rules and are
free to use the methods that work best for you.
Free at last to do it your way. Give yourself permission. It's ok to break the
rules, if you know the rules, and then know which rules to break. Who knows?
Your way may be better. At least it's better for you! And you count!
PIN DRAFTING
(also called "rub offs" or "pin tracings")
Do you have a garment that you just love to pieces?
It fits perfectly. It is so comfortable. It is so flattering.
Whatever the reason you want to make one just like it because either you want
several more, the original has just plain worn out, or the color is dated.
Well, you can make a pattern and not have to rip apart the original. Turn the
garment inside out, smoothing it.
On an ironing board or other padded surface put a sheet of brown paper
(sometimes called kraft paper or brown wrapping paper). Take the garment one
section or pattern piece at a time and lay it on the paper. Using a straight
pin and going along the edge, "trace" the stitching line by poking
the pin in the paper every half inch or so. Continue to do this until each
pattern piece has been drafted.
Determine the seam allowance that you would like and draw a line at that
distance from the pin marked line. This becomes your cutting line.
If it's a particularly detailed garment, study to see how the garment was
probably put together so that you can reproduce the results.
You now have a pattern to reproduce one of your favorite garments. If you use
fabric that is different, then you will want to adjust the pattern to
accommodate the variances the new fabric would create in the final fit.
CREASE/UNCREASE
A spritz bottle with a mixture of white vinegar and water (I use half and half
but others recommend different ratios) handy for setting creases or getting out
wrinkles. It works both ways. And it won't leave things smelling like a pickle
either.
EMBROIDERY OUTLINING
Black doesn't always have to be used in the outlines of machine embroidery.
Some stitchers simply have troubles with black threads easily breaking. At
times the black may appear too harsh. Good substitute colors
include:
--dark brown
--dark navy blue
--dark grey
Choose one of these other color that seems to best fit with the other colors in
your designs to get a more pleasing result. Look through your thread collection
where you may find several possibilities in each of suggested color group.
TURN AROUND
A chop stick or a drum stick are useful
for turning things right side out.
DEFINITION
I can't take credit for this although I have said that there are no mistakes in
sewing, just creative opportunities.
On another list a writer was describing the heirloom sewing she was doing and
mentioned that the finished garment had some "unexpected detail." She
went on to explain that in their house that was a code word for "creative
fix of a screw up."
Same idea, different words. Be creative with some unexpected details.
HARD COPIES
Keep a notebook, address book, or index roller box by your computer. Write in
it URLs, any screen names and passwords, and e-ddresses. You'll know what's
what and not have to panic if your computer should crash or when you go to a
new computer.
I have two address books myself, one for URLs and necessary information and the
other for e-ddresses.
Then I have a tablet for the file name of each item I down load and where it
was saved.
These hard copies have proven their worth many times over.
QUARTERS
Quilters have lots of quarters, fat and otherwise, but they're not for plugging
into machines. They are a part of their addiction and they need a home. How
about a cd tower rack? Or if sun and dust could harm that collection (aka stash
or resource center), then try a cabinet style cd tower. You can so easily feast
your eyes on the little beauties being stored this way.
NO STICKY HANDS
Machine embroiders who use spray adhesive:
--cut a frame to cover the hoop so that the hoop stays clean
--put the hoop down in a deep box before spraying
--combine the above two ideas
--if you're holding the hoop with one hand, slip a plastic bag on that hand or
a disposable plastic glove (available by the boxful)
No more sticky hands, no grubby hoops, no spray fall out, and no fumes floating
around.
SLIP, SLIDE, AND GLIDE
WHAT? In a word, silicone. This is the kind that was made by NASA for the molds
so that the tiles would pop out. We've been using it in tiny little bottles and
called it Sewer's Aid. Clotilde now sells it as a brand new product for
quilters at
$8 for 6 oz. Some have already been using it in an 11 oz. can for $1.79 in
Wal-Mart's automative department, Prestone Silicone Lubricant, high viscosity
formula, but it's available at other places too. (This seems to be another case
that when the sewing label is applied the price escalates.)
QUILTERS: spray a little on a soft cloth and polish your machine bed. Free
motion quilting will be as slick as a whistle.
EMBROIDERERS: 1. very lightly spray the fabric (it won't stain) and your needle
will move more easily with less friction and therefore less heat built up. The
needle lasts longer with less wear and tear while the thread won't snarl. 2.
clean sticky hoops with it. Wipe the hoops with silicone, BUT do use soap and
water to wash off the silicone so that it doesn't soak into the plastic,
causing the hoop to split later on.
ALL STITCHERS: wipe a saturated cotton ball on the needle. Again, the needle
will move much more freely and a tad will get on the thread, especially
difficult ones, but nothing will get into your tension or sensors.
ALSO: some clothing manufacturers use this silicone to make their fabric water
proof.
WARNING: don't spray on bare floors unless you plan to take up indoor skating
or wish to land in the hospital with a very curious story as to how you managed
to slip and slide.
The only things you want slipping and sliding are your neede, thread, and
fabric.
SMOOTH SAILING
SEWING MOTHER
As I looked at this title I becan to realize that it could have several
meanings. I meant for it to say something about the person or persons in your
life who gave birth to your sewing. They'd be your Sewing Mom.
But then there are your own mothers who may have sewn. And their mothers before
them. So on and so forth.
Are you a mother who sews?
Which ever way you choose to take it, give thanks to your own personal sewing
mother and to your own mother whether she sewed or not. And most of all, Happy
Mother's Day to all you mothers who sew.
sewingly yours,
nancy s in wis
(all rights reserved)
P.S. My grandmother, born in 1879, was my sewing mother--her own mother had
been both a milliner and a seamstress--and my third grade Sunday School teacher
was also my sewing mother. My mother sewed some but usually deferred to
Grandmother and me. Now, she just gets me to do it long distance. And, I'm a
sewing mother and grandmother.
PEEL AWAY
Any time you need to "tape" paper but
want to remove it later without tearing the paper (such as pattern piece), you
know that regular "scotch" tape isn't going to work for you. There
are, however, several kinds of tape that will do the job for you.
--blue hair tape found at places such as Wal-Mart --pink hair tape found at
beauty supply stores --"surgical" paper tape found with band-aids,
etc.
--architect's tape found at art or office supply stores
Any of these will stick paper to paper or other places and then peel off when
you're finished.
ADDENDUM
Silicone uses:
---water proof rugs and carpets
---wipe on knitting machines
Tapes that peel off:
---Scotch Removable Magic Tape
---Duck Brand blue painter's tape
With many thanks to those who have written with more information. Now we can
use Duck tape too! I tested this one.
SOAPY LINES
Save slivers of non-scented soap to use for marking fabrics. I'm told that
deodorant soap (but again without fragrences added) makes a more lasting mark.
You may want to try this out on some scraps of fabric. You can get a very fine
line that won't brush away like chalk does. This idea comes down through many
years from tailors.
MAKE YOUR OWN: WSS
Save those scraps of water soluble stabilizer in a zipped plastic bag. When you
have a goodly amount, you can either make your own liquid to brush/spray on or
another sheet of wss.
2 yards water soluble stabilizer scraps
1 cup water
1/2 cup alcohol
Mix in a bowl. Cover. Let stand 1-2 days. Put in a spray bottle or jar for
brushing on. You may want to refrigerate this, but with the alcohol it may keep
ok. OR pour on a cookie sheet or jelly roll pan. Let dry. Peel off. Bag for
future use.
Another "waste not/want not" idea that's been around for awhile, but
still bears repeating and sharing.
TWO EYES, ONE NEEDLE
There use to be a two holed needle (and it's not the twin or double needle). It
has one hole above the other, so it's a little on the delicate site. The
purpose was to put a different color thread in each eye and use it with those
designs built into your sewing machine or for shading in free motion embroidery.
Then it disappeared from the market. Now it has resurfaced and is being offered
by one US company which found a manufacturer abroad who required a rather large
order to assure a continuing supply.
Now they are also being used in machine embroidery.
One stitcher used two shades in a free standing lace motif.
Yes, they are probably a bit pricey and you'll want to be careful with them
Since this company charges just
$2 s&h for an order, you may want to get yourself more than one or share an
order with other stitchers.
Here's a way to expand your decorative efforts for more creativity and
interest.
To find out more about the two eyed needle go to this
site: www.kapres.com, NAYY but have ordered from them with excellent service.
I'm still in the experimental mode.
CUTTING IT IN TIGHT SPACES
Create a cutting and work space that can be put up and taken down at will. And
how can you create such magic? Attach a board in the size of your choice to an
ironing board. Try to get a stable ironing board and one that is height
adjustable. Finish or cover the board to suit your needs. Use it then for
cutting, ironing, blocking, drafting, or whatever you can think up to do on it.
There are commercially made ironing board toppers, but you can do it yourself,
custom made to your specifications, and for much less.
CHORES FIRST?
Discussions in several quarters have been about finding or making the time to
sew. Some insist that all chores must be completed before play. But I question
if sewing is really just play? As enjoyable as it is, it is also a creative
endeavor as necessary for our mental well being as anything that fulfills and
completes us cas be.
If adhering to doing all other chores first always eliminates the possibility
of sewing, then we will be left yearning and partly empty. The product produced
from our sewing may be very necessary too. It's an outlet with rewards.
One writer made the suggestion of scheduling sewing as a part of the day and
putting it early on, first prehaps, even if for just 15 minutes.
That is certainly one solution. Another might be to plan chores in blocks,
leaving a half day for sewing. As less people need to be accounted for in the
schedule, then a whole day might become available or several half days.
However, during the busiest stages of life, the few minutes taken early on in
the day could well soothe you and ready you for the rest of the activities
because you have first nurtured yourself. Just as a well needs to be primed, we
cannot provide for others while running about on three wheels. The fourth one,
either missing or flat, makes for a bumpy or impossible ride.
Sew to reclaim yourself. Balance your life to include your art.
All lives need some discretionary time with choices. Sewing could be one of
yours. The outcome could well be worthwhile.
MONOGRAMS
Where is the proper place to put monograms?
What is the proper format and order?
There use to be such specific rules for all of this.
Not any more though! How are you going to handle towels for instance when each
is keeping their own name or they have decided on a blended name? Will the
"rule" that the male's initials must never be split up still hold
today? That's why the traditional way of the male's sir name initial being in
the middle with his given name's initial to the left and her's to right. Of
course, there's always "His" and "Hers" I guess.
And if that doesn't pose enough of a problem, with the starting return of dress
shirts for business wear, more monograms are being put on them. Research shows
that various authorities have different ideas of which cuff. The range is from
only on the left to either one to the choice of the user to the locale's
custom. I thought that I'd be so smart and look at Land's End since they are
such a big shirt monogrammer. They listed styles, fonts, and size, but their
only sample on a shirt was on the pocket! Go figure!
Each summer they have a huge sale of returned, over stocked, and error products
at fantastic prices. Our son bought several of their high-end dress shirts ($4
each!) accompanied by a guide sheet to taking out the stitches (whidh he
"let" me do).
All of the monograms were on the left cuff. See what I mean?
Maybe it is going to be necessary for each monogrammer to consult with the end
user coming up with guidelines to fit the circumstances.
FLY WITH EMBIRD
Do you have Embird for your machine embroidery? Do you use it? To the fullest?
Need help? Want help? You do?
Then do I have a deal for you. Here are three sites with free
tutorials:
www.embird.com (also has a list of other sites, free and sale)
www.ayeone.com
www.sadiasews.com (also http://sadiasdesigns.net)
Some require Adobe Acrobat Reder for the PDF files. Print them off, punch
holes, and put in dividers in a binder. They are worth their weight in gold to have
you using more and more of Embird softwared for your machine embroidery.
There are many other sites too, but this should get you flying high.
STIFF AS A BOARD, PART 1
The best stabilizer, whether for embroidery, quilting, or sewing, is one that makes
the fabric "as stiff as a board." One way to accomplish this is to
starch, but there are many ways to get the end result.
If you're old enough, you remember starching things, so you know what it is. If
not, listen up, because there will be several ways to do it. It's up to you
find the method that best suits you.
The first ways come from purchased products. They should be in the laundry
supply section of a variety of stores.
Liquid:
For large pieces of fabrics, consider liquid starch. Mix
3 parts of starch to 1 part water. Wet fabric. Dip in starch mixture. Press
while still damp. Hoop if you are going to embroider. No other stabilizer is
really needed.
Spray:
For smaller pieces, spray starch will work. However,
spray and iron dry as many times as it takes to get it
to the needed stiffness. Do be careful not to get it on
bare floors though because, like the silicon, you don't
want to make an indoor skating rink.
Starching sheer fabrics makes it easier to handle both
in cutting as well as in sewing. In all situations, you will
be rinsing out the starch afterwards, so washability of
the fabric needs to be a part of the equation.
To be continued.
THE PERFECT MIX
FOR MATCHING UP
Mixing and matching pattern and fabric can be confusing. Here are a few
guidelines to avoid a disastrous outcome:
--a complex design needs a simple fabric to show off
its details
--a simple design can showcase a complex fabric such as
a sheath style wedding dress with beaded, embroidered,
brocaded, etc. fabrics
--a simple design paired with a simple fabric, perfectly
fit and meticulously stitched and finished can be a
canvas for ever changing accessories (think of the "little"
black dress)
What will probably fail? A complex design with a complex fabric. They are
fighting with each other--trying to get top billing in the production. Neither
one can really be seen because each overshadows the other.
You have some knock out fabric? Look for a simple pattern that is flattering to
you. You've found a smashing pattern with unusual lines and techniques? A
lovely but simple fabric is really going to showcase them. Actually, the simple
design with the simple fabric can be the hardest to pull off because you will
have to pay much attention to the limited details of each. Now is the time to
pull out all that you know about good fit and then to do your very best work.
This could become the staple, the backbone, the mainstay of your wardrobe.
When they say keep it simple, get back to the basics, remember these equations
to give balance to your sewing. It will all add up to a raving success which
will multiply your enjoyment and your pride. Be ready for the compliments to
roll in, because you've achieved an award winning performance.
DON'T THROW IT AWAY!
What shouldn't you dispose of? Dryer sheets (such as Bounce, etc.--mine are
Great Value, brand doesn't matter).
Used ones can be recycled:
1. dust with them
2. use them for a light weight stablizer
Spring for some new ones:
1. pack in bag or bin when storing out of season clothes
so the next season they'll come out smelling fresh 2. take a tip from car
dealers and tuck one under the
seat of car where there has been smoke or other such
odors
Not all sewing ideas, but you do need to dust the sewing area, you can always
use a quick bit of stablizer, you could use the storage idea with your fabirc
resource collection, and if something has made your sewing area smell
unpleasant...
well, you know what to do by now, don't you?
SETTING IT STRAIGHT and GETTING IT RIGHT
A simple thank you from the bottom of my heart will have to suffice for now.
You have spoken, long, loud, clearly, and firmly. I have heard you. I have been
humbled and blessed.
To clear the air, please remember, not every idea presented here is for
everyone everytime. You are in charge of the choices you make: use it, ignore
it, or share it. And, yes, you may disagree. This is healthy. Just one rule:
respect each other and validate their opinions. (To put it straight to the
point: let the other person know that you value the opinion or idea presented
and would like to add another aspect to the discussion. Now, that doesn't hurt,
does it?)
Our discussions here can be lively and fruitful because we have a sewing circle
with people from literally all over the world. Of the six major continents,
only one isn't represented among us. We come from North America, Europe,
Africa, Australia, and Asia.
Where else could you come on a daily basis to learn and explore with such a
diverse group of people? We're our own United Nations!
Sewing must be a universal language and the love of sewing makes the world go
around. Ain't technology wonderful?? LOL! Remember too that we are both men and
women, old and young, experienced and beginners (and everywhere in between),
lurkers and outspoken, all races, all faiths, all education levels, healthy and
not so healthy, all body shapes and sizes--well, let's just say that the one
thing we have in common is that we're all a part of the great big wonderful
world of sewing. Keep that one guiding principle in mind, please.
My tip for you for today is really a two fold mission, should you choose to
accept it:
1. give your machines a hug or a pat--just let them know how much
you appreciate them, one and all, whether old or new, from
the simplest of them all to the very top of the line, make sure they
know that they are your friends. Take care of them as such.
2. somehow let the important sewing person or persons in your life
know just how much you love and appreciate what they have done
for you in the big broad world of sewing--don't wait unitl it's too late!
Again, thank you, each and every one of you. This day you have made a
difference. Know that it was felt and accepted wtih the kindness it was given.
Hugs!
sewingly yours,
nancy s in wis
(all rights reserved)
STIFF SUBSTITUTES
FOR BOWLING
The hottest things to sew just now, if you believe the bbs. and lists, are
fabric bowls.
It seems that the stiff insides are made with "Timtex," a stiff
interfacing of sorts that looks a lot like craft felt painted with a heavy
layer of starch or wallpaper paste and let to dry. It is hard to find and even
more expensive.
Those enterprising people out there in sewingland have tried some other
products as substitutes and have found then satisfactory:
--cotton canvas (1 or 2 layers)
--buckram and craft felt (1 layer of each) --heavy craft interfacing (1 or 2
layers)
Bowl away but be sure to post pictures of what you do.
THE FOUR LETTER WORD
The h*** word, that is. H-A-N-D -- dirty talk, bad!
For those of us addicted to doing anything and everything by machine, the
thought of sewing by hand is almost a night mare. We'll fret and fume to figure
out how to it "our" way, trying and trying any and every way possible
to get out of doing it by hand, preferring the machine to the extreme.
However, this may not always be in the best interest of the finished project or
even our own sanity. It not only might be faster to it by hand, it may actually
be the better way.
A tie needs a long, loose, hidden running stitch created with one length of
thread made by hand, going down the back to close it. Small, tight quarters may
well look and preform better with small hand stitches. Shank buttons are better
sewn on by hand as are snaps, hooks and eyes. The list can go on, varying from
person to person.
For those with real difficulties in using a needle by hand, "hand"
isn't just a four letter word for you. It is one to be avoided and so other
means must be developed. But for the rest of us, it's more a mind set.
So, the time has come to look at hand sewing with a different eyes and a new
attitude. What once you were avoiding at all costs, may really be the best
bargain in town. No more four letter words in sewing.
GRADUATION GIFT
laundry bag with pockets for laundry supplies (there's neat new fold down
"basket" which I found at Wal-Mart for under $7)
-----------use your particular technique to decorate
it (we're embroidering big initials) -----------include a roll of quarters for
those leaving
home
-----------maybe put in some other thing or things:
+++embroidered towels
+++bath wrap and/or head wrap
+++bath caddy
+++small journal and/or photo album
polar fleece blnket in the next school's colors with embroidery or other
decorative technique
picture patch quilt pillow
-----------if available use first school picture with
senior picture
-----------copy of graduation announcement -----------can use school color
And this should give you a few ideas to jump start your imagination--these are
some of the ones that we've done just in this century.
Congratulations to the Class of '04!
TO SEW OR NOT TO SEW
In deciding whether to purchase readimade or to make it yourself there are a
number of considerations. Go through them, think them over, and make a decesion
with which you are comfotable.
1. Can you easily find exactly what you want for a price that you're willing to
pay? If so, buy it!!!
2. Are there any "little" things you're willing to do without but the
rest will do at a price you can pay?
If so, then buy it!!
3. If you make it, do you have the skills needed?
4.Add to the skills' equation your costs in time and money
5. Now include what you really want, what you won't compromise on, and what you
will settle for. Now you're ready to decide whether to buy it made or sew it
yourself.
6. But, if you make it, you have complete control over:
++color
++style
++fabric
++finish details
++fit
++quality of materials and workmanship
++cost in time and money
You're completely in charge! You don't have to settle.
Yes, there are times that it makes complete sense to buy, but other times it
may not even be possible because of one or more of the criteria and values that
must be met in consideration #6.
To sew or not sew, that IS the question. But only you have the answer.
WHICH WAY!
Here's a really simply, short, quicky for which "away" stablizer to
use with which fabric:
--wovens=tear aways
--knits=cut aways
--don't want any whiskers left?=wash away
--heirloom=burn away.
No, these guidelines aren't always the perfect solution, but they give you a
jumping board--a rule of the thumb from which to start.
Stabilizers aren't just for machine embroidery either, so keep these ideas in
mind when you need to help your fabric behave with other sewing techniques.
FABRIC PERSONALITIES
Yes, indeed, fabrics really do have character through their very own
personalities.Quilters especially are well aware of this. Some to take a look
at are:
--tone-on-tone
--graphics
--dots, spots,circles
--stripes
--light savers (light, medium, dark)
What do each say to you? What are you trying to say with your fabrics? Use this
language as a communication tool.
MAKING THE GRADE
Grading is a word with two very different definitions in the world of sewing.
1. Trimming seam allowances so that each layer is a different width from the
other. Easiest done by laying the scissors at an angle while cutting. Also
called bevelling.
2. Changing the size of a pattern. That is, making it smaller or larger. The
amount of increase or decrease at each line is referred to as
"grading."
This is your new word for the day. Or is that two?
Knowing these terms will help you make the "grade."
ONLY "PERFECT"?
Does everything you make have to be of "heirloom" quality?
I keep reading about "buying only the very best quality" and of
"only sewing the most perfect details for everything."
As nice as this might seem, it doesn't hold logic. Consider what the use of the
item is going to be. Is it for a rough and tumble growing child? Then why make
something for them that can't withstand the rigors of real life?
Not everything you make is going to be kept for the next generation let alone
even the next year.
Don't be afraid to whip up things with inexpensive materials and fast
techniques. It's sometimes called "quick and dirty."
Choose the situation to just get it done. We're admonished to not do a thing
until we can do it well, but if you don't have time now to it
"right," then when will you have that kind of time?
You need not be ashamed or apologetic. Sew it for right now!
LOOKING YOUR BEST
Wanting to get back into sewing for yourself or someone else? Having trouble
with getting the fit and a good look together in one package?
You can look younger, better, trimmer, and fitter.
Find the help in one or more of these books:
Leah Feldon
Does This Make Me Look Fat?
Margauix Tartarotti
The Fine Art of Dressing
Darlene Miller
Your Shape, Your Clothing, and You
(Secrets of a Successful Wardrobe)
Jan Larkey
Flatter Your Figure
Carla Mason Mathis
The Triumph of Individual Style
Judith Rasband
Wardrobe Strategies for Women
Fabulous Fit
Kendall Farr
The Pocket Stylist
Some of these books are out of print. Some of them are reasonably prices while
others are expensive. Let your library and your bookstore be your friend while
you browse for the words that will speak to you.
Making the right choices are even more possible when you sew. Look younger and
thinner. Feel better too!
PAPER DOLLS
Some of you may have made or want to make the embroidered paper dolls. The
question has been posed, "How do you get the clothes to stay on the
dolls?" Good question considering how they are make.
Over the last 24 hours I have run across two possible solutions.
In playing with 6 year old Tessa (who must remain quiet for three weeks
following surgery on Wednesday), I examined the thick, heavy cardboard paper
dolls but not quite as thick clothes. They weren't falling off. The secret was
a Velcro dot in the center back side of the outfit and on the tummy of the
doll. Light bulb on time!
Why not on the embroidered paper dolls? I did like too that the dollies and
their outfits were all in a nice vinyl snap close pouch.
So with the question answered, I was surprised today to have a friend share
another solution. This link will show you what I mean:
http://www.oregonpatchworks.com/items.php?did=16400&pid=27761
My friend found out the vinyl sandwich isn't sewn on as part of the embroidery
process. Instead, the dolls and their outfits are sandwiched between layers of
vinyl and stitched around on a regular sewing machine using a Teflon foot.
Now remember, I have not had a chance to try out either of these techniques,
but do think that they seemingly have merit. With the summer months coming up
for some, this would be a nice project to do for little ones and maybe not so
little.
One other place on the internet I noticed a lovely embroidered fold over clutch
purse like folder made out of fabric for storing the dolls and clothes.
BAG IT IN A HURRY
Connie has shown you the site with directions for making a tote/bag or whatever
you want to call them.
If you are one to change bags/purses/handbags/totes then you might like a way
to do it quickly without forgetting anything. There is no specific pattern for
this, only some general guidelines because each of us are so very different in
what we want/need.
Lay out all that you carry with you, editing if need be or possible. Decide
where you would like each thing in relationship to each other. Start measuring
and sketching until you have the outline of a bag to which you add the needed
pockets. This will become an insert for your bags. Once you make it, fill it
up, and just move it from bag to bag. It's become a removable liner, not unlike
the traveling vests and other such garments with pockets all over the place.
The choice of fabrics, colors, dimensions, findings, etc.
will be entirely yours. Think it out and make it work for you. Your pockets can
be open, zippered, snapped, velcroed, or buttoned. You may want to make it
quite stiff (plastic canvas is one idea). Whatever you choose, however you put
it together, it will make a little corner of your life easier.
Bag it and go!
FATHER'S DAY TAG
Less than two weeks away here in the USA is Father's Day. I'm going to start
the relay tag game with several ideas for gifts you can make.
--map holder, accordian pleated folder, for the car --small tool vinyl and
denim pouch (from Junk Jeans) --bean bag game --tie incorporating your needle
skill (emb., quilt, x-stitch) --shower wrap --can or mug wrap
Now it's your turn to add to the list by posting your ideas, whether you've
actully made them or not.
KEEP THOSE PEEPERS
SEEING
Some sew without glasses while some sew with. Some need to sit back from their machines
and others need to be up close and personal. Today's machines certainly stitch
with much speed. Needles break and fly in different directions. And eyes are in
their flight pattern.
It seems to me that if safety glasses are required for working around power
tools, then they should be considred for those sewing without glasses. Sewing
machines could well be considered a power machine too.
"Sew," dear friend, won't you contemplait protecting your eyes while
using one of your machines--sewing, embroidery, or serger? Not only will your
eyes thank you, so will all who love you, care about you, and need you.
PROTECT YOUR EYES
DOUBLE EYED NEEDLE
REVISITED
There is now a list for users or wannabees of this interesting
sewing/embroidery needle with two eyes on one shaft:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/doubleeye/
Pictures of work are starting to appear. Users are sharing experiences. The
list owner also is the vendor, but quite low keyed, wanting to present a place
to learn and post ideas.
Since last I approached this subject I have learned that the tension should be
lowered and that wide zig zag stitches should not be used including those as in
the built-in decorative stitches because the thread in the upper eye will not
catch with the bobbin thread, causing that thread to lay on top of the
stitching rather than becoming a part of the stitches. Avoid heavier threads.
Due to the construction of this needle with two eyes, it tends to be a little
fragile as compared to regular needles.
In one picture a lion's mane has been stitched most effectively with black and
gold threads. I'm thinking about what colors to use in a teddy bear that I
would like to embroider.
BEGINNINGS AND ENDINGS
Newer machines today have "tie-offs." That is they lock the stitches at
each end of a seam.
Many without this feature simply use reverse to make sure the stitch won't come
undone.
However, there are several other ways which also will achieve this and still
not have the heavy look of the reverse and forward stitches on top of each
other.
--at each end of the seam, reset the stitch length to zero, if your machine
will do that, letting the needle stitch in thread in one place 3-4 times,
--can't get zero stitch length? that's ok, let them be as short as possible for
several stitches and then increase to desired length until just before the end
when again you'll finish off with the shortest 3-4 stitches possible,
--hold the fabric so that it can't move while the needle stitches up and down
in place several times,
--if it's easy enough to do, drop the feed dogs so that your needle will stitch
in one place, raise the feed dogs, stitch to the end, drop feed dogs again
while once more stitching several times in place.
When you want the stitches to look absolutely perfect as in topstitching
prehaps, choose one of these methods (the one best suited to your particular
machine and the one with which you are most comfortable).
Of course, there is always the old fashioned way of pulling the top thread
through to the bottom and tying both threads together. But then, that would be
the 4 letter word of "hand,"
wouldn't it?
THREAD THE NEEDLE
No, it's not a game, especially when you're trying to thread a hand needle
without a special needle threader. Here are some ideas to help you with a
smoother handsewing experience:
--select a needle with a bigger eye if it seems the needle's eye is blinking
shut everytime you go to thread it
--cut the thread at an angle
--do not wet the thread as it will swell up
--wet the eye of the needle
--some suggest knotting that end of the
thread while others say to knot the end
last off the spooll; try and see which way provides less knotting in the sewing
process as the best way for you will depend on the way your particular thread
has been made and which way it's wound on the spool
--if all else fails, it's time for help from a little tooll there are several
availaible on the market
With these little tricks, just maybe threading the needle will be as easy as a
game again.
WHAT DO YOU SAY?
When you were a child and given something, you were probably reminded with this
question, "What do you say?" And you knew to say, "Thank
you."
A compliment is a gift too. Why do many sewists have so much trouble accepting
it? All too quickly out comes a recital of all the mistakes. This does not
validate the giver's thoughts. Or, it may even seem that you are fishing for
more compliments.
Are you ashamed of what you've made? Are you that insecure? Why must you point
out negatives?
Whatever the reason, remember your manners. If you have to, practice the two
magic words you were taught so long ago, "Prease." and "Thank
you."
And, if possible make the compliment giver feel even better by adding, "I
love (like) ________." or "I enjoyed making it. Thank you for
admiring it too."
With a very simple thank you, you practice good manners, make the giver feel
good, and don't put yourself down. Everyone's a winner.
Now, altogether, let's say it: THANK YOU. After all isn't that what we learned
in kindergarten (you know, "the place where we learned everything that we
needed to know in life")?
SABLE
The great Challenge is just about underway, but let me once again encourage you
to join in. Seen on the internet was the word SABLE:
S tash
A quisition
B eyond
L ife
E xpectation
Do you have items of fabric that fall into this category?
If so, you really need to join the competition. Even if you don't come in first
place, you'll still be a winner.
TRAVELING?
Keep track of neat places you find that deal with any area of sewing and needle
arts. You may want to contact them sometime down the road and you'll have a way
to do just that.
Also, won't you please share them with the rest of us? Pictures would be nice
to have too. We like pictures. hint hint
THRU THE EYES OF A CHILD
Our Godson's mother was telling how delighted and thrilled he was with the
little quilt she had made him/ She had used the scraps left from an African
themed wall hanging quilt (which she had made for them) and then used what she
called her poor sewing skills to make it up. (Trust me, her ongoing war with
the sewing machine is almost undiscribable!) Of course, he was!
All a child sees in anything you make are the following:
--you made it for him/her
--you made it with love
And that is really all a child sees or cares about. Sew for them with perfect
assurance of love through something made personally just for the individual
child. Then let go once you've given it away. Let the child use it the way
he/she wants to. After all, it's been made with love.
WHICH SIDE IS THE RIGHT?
Although a knit, polar fleece seems to work differently in determining the
right side (if you need to know it). Pull crossways on the cut edge. The cut
edge will roll. The side that it rolls to is the right side. Use which ever
side you like best, but be consistant.
STUCK IN A RUT?
You have a new machine or you have learned a new technique. Of course, you want
to use it. You want to share it as gifts. But, no one machine nor one technique
is best let alone appropriate for anything and everything. That's why you may
see some, shall we politely say, "odd" things made up. You may not
wish to be known as the "whatever" queen. It can become too much of a
good thing.
Instead of making a variety of things with the one machine or technique,
analyze what is the best process for each item you wish to make. Then, instead
of how many different things can you make the same way, how many techniques can
you use to make different items? Or even, can you combine several techniques in
the same item?
At least you won't be bored. You'll be climbing up and out of "the same
old thing." As you rotate what you're making and how you do it, you'll be
keeping your sewing fresh while also improving a variety of techniques.
CIRCLES
Do you find yourself going in circles? Then maybe you've been cutting too many
corners.
When what you're making doesn't seem to come out right, always resulting in
similar ways that you really don't want, then maybe you have to stop chasing
your tail. Instead, start the project at the beginning and move forward one
step at a time, stopping for an occasional breath to see where you have been.
You may catch the hang up that way.
Find out which corner you've been cutting too close.
That may put a stop to the circle. Short cuts are only as good as the results
they produce.
AN ELEMENT FOR SEWING
SIMPLE
Common sense
...is a virtue needed in large
doses if you want to make
your sewing even more simple.
A GOLDEN OLDIE
Patience...
...don't spoil things by doing
something silly because you're
in a hurry or think you can skip
needed basic steps.
GET YOUR ACT TOGETHER
Plan first. Read everything. Outline timing. List what you will be needing.
Organize next. Get all the things that you will need together. Check the measurements.
TIMELESS TRUISMS
Time...
1. be honest with yourself about how long something will take you to do
and
2. just how much time do you really have to do it?
MONEY MATTERS
How much money is it going to cost?
1. What range will the project cost?
2. How much are you comfortable in spending?
3. Are there compromises that you can make
that will bring these two answers into line with
each other?
4. Search for ways to afford what you want.
READING OR FEASTING?
Are you just reading about sewing (like reading a
menu) or are you actually stitching (such as eating the banquet)?
The choice is yours.
STAYING PUT
There are times in sewing when a stitched seam and the fabric need to not move
or stretch out. An extra addition in the form of a tape can be stitched in to
the seam to keep things all in place. Places such as the shoulder seam in a
knit shirt, the roll line in a jacket, a crotch seam in pants, the under arm
seam in a top, and bias seams where stretch is not desired are possible candidates
for this technique and where just stay stitching isn't enough to do the job.
And it's a quick fix.
The tapes are found in the same section as the bias tapes and other such
products. They are white, woven, cotton or polyester, and 1/4" -
1/2". Measure the amount that you need to have the seam stay. Cut the tape
that length. Lay the tape on the seam line and stitch it into place without
stretching the fabric, on the seam line. In a pinch, use the selvage edge of
woven fabric as a substitute for purchased stay tape.